A Chemists’ Guide to Skincare That Works

Stem cells and snail slime are not on the list

Dana G Smith
Elemental

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Credit: Makidotvn/iStock/Getty Images Plus

TThe amount of skin care options available to slather on your face is dizzying. There are lotions, serums, masks, oils, and acids as well as stem cells, snail slime, charcoal, and even diamonds. And with complicated ingredient lists, it can feel like you need a chemistry degree to purchase a basic moisturizer.

Navigating the $134.8 billion global skin care industry is made even more confusing because many dermatologists have skin in the game. They might be paid consultants for cosmetic companies, sell high-end nonprescription products at their private practices, or even have their own skin care lines they want to promote.

“If these products work so well, number one: You wouldn’t see dermatologists aging, and you do,” says New York-based dermatologist Dr. Fayne Frey, author of FryFace, a website aimed at demystifying skin care. “Number two: You wouldn’t see all my cosmetic dermatology friends offering laser treatments and peels,” she continues, because if the products worked well, doctors wouldn’t have to rely on more complex treatments.

So what do impartial cosmetic chemists and dermatologists like Frey recommend? And what’s overpriced junk that will just fill up your pores while emptying your wallet? Read on.

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Dana G Smith
Elemental

Health and science writer • PhD in 🧠 • Words in Scientific American, STAT, The Atlantic, The Guardian • Award-winning Covid-19 coverage for Elemental