The Nuance
Why Food Experts Can’t Agree on Coconut Oil
Nutrition pros are at an impasse over this divisive fat
Every week, the Nuance will go beyond the basics, offering a deep and researched look at the latest science and expert insights on a buzzed-about health topic.
There’s no source of dietary fat as hotly contested as coconut oil.
In recent years, coconut oil has been the darling of diet gurus for its supposed antioxidant and fat-burning attributes, as well as unproven claims that it can do everything from treat Alzheimer’s disease to improve endurance. But many nutrition scientists aren’t sold on coconut oil’s healthfulness. Earlier this year, Karin Michels, an adjunct professor of epidemiology at Harvard, made waves when she called coconut oil “pure poison”.
To understand why some food experts sing the praises of coconut oil while others do the opposite, it helps to review some nutrition history. Until recently, the U.S. government’s official nutrition guidelines advised people to avoid or limit their intake of fat. It was widely believed that fat expanded waistlines and, later, exploded hearts. The government’s notorious food pyramid recommended eating non-dairy fats and oils “sparingly,” while refined grains, breads, and other carbohydrate-loaded foods formed…
